Blancpain is revered as the oldest watchmaker in the world, with a legacy that spans nearly three centuries. This Swiss luxury watch brand is synonymous with elegance, precision, and innovation in horology.
Established in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain in the Swiss village of Villeret, the brand has continuously evolved, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern advancements. Blancpain‘s commitment to exclusively producing mechanical watches sets it apart in the industry, especially notable during the quartz crisis when many watchmakers shifted to electronic timepieces.
The brand’s dedication to creating complex, high-quality watches is evident in its iconic collections like the Fifty Fathoms, the first modern diving watch; and the Villeret, known for its classical elegance. Today, Blancpain remains at the forefront of luxury watchmaking, celebrated for its innovative designs and exceptional craftsmanship.
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A Brief History of Blancpain, the oldest watchmaker in the world
Blancpain’s journey began in 1735 when Jehan-Jacques Blancpain registered himself as a watchmaker in the Swiss village of Villeret. This marked the beginnings of what would become today’s oldest watchmaking brand. Throughout the 19th century, Blancpain remained a family-run business, with significant advancements such as the modernization of production methods and the development of sophisticated watch movements.
In the 1930s, under the leadership of Betty Fiechter and later her nephew Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain achieved remarkable milestones. The creation of the Fifty Fathoms in 1953, the world’s first modern diving watch, revolutionized the industry. This model was developed in collaboration with the French Navy and featured innovative waterproofing technologies.
The quartz crisis of the 1970s posed a significant challenge, but Blancpain’s commitment to mechanical watchmaking and grand complications helped it endure. In 1982, Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet acquired the brand, steering it towards a new era of exclusivity and excellence. By 1992, Blancpain had become a part of the Swatch Group, further solidifying its place in the world of haute horlogerie.
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About Blancpain Collections
Each of Blancpain’s collections showcase exceptional craftsmanship, advanced decorative techniques, and sophisticated movements, staying true to the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship, design, and technical prowess.
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Fifty Fathoms
The Fifty Fathoms collection is perhaps Blancpain’s most iconic, known for its pioneering role in the development of dive watches. Introduced in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms was the first modern diving watch, designed for military and professional use. Its creation was driven by the needs of the French Navy’s combat divers, who required a reliable, legible, and highly water-resistant timepiece. The watch featured a unidirectional rotating bezel, a dual-gasket crown system, and exceptional water resistance up to 50 fathoms (91.45 meters).
Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, founders of the French combat diver unit, approached Blancpain for this mission. Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then CEO of Blancpain, rose to the challenge, drawing inspiration from Shakespeare’s “The Tempest” for the watch’s name. The Fifty Fathoms quickly gained a reputation for its durability and accuracy, becoming the official watch of the French Navy and later being adopted by several other naval forces worldwide.
Over the decades, Blancpain has continuously innovated within the Fifty Fathoms line. In the 1970s, the collection saw various design updates, including special editions like the Fifty Fathoms 3H for the German Navy, featuring tritium-treated hands and hour markers. The quartz crisis of the 1980s temporarily halted production, but the Fifty Fathoms was revived in 1997 and again in 2003, with modern editions that combined vintage aesthetics with contemporary materials and technology.
Modern iterations of the Fifty Fathoms continue to uphold its legacy with advanced materials and updated designs. The 2007 reintroduction of the Fifty Fathoms included the Caliber 1315, an in-house movement known for its robust 5-day power reserve and high resistance to shocks and vibrations. This modern version also featured a scratch-resistant sapphire bezel and 300-meter water resistance, catering to both professional divers and watch enthusiasts.
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Air Command
The Air Command collection pays homage to Blancpain’s aviation heritage, originally created in the 1950s for the U.S. Air Force. This collection was developed in response to a request for a high-precision chronograph that could meet the rigorous demands of military pilots. Though not officially adopted by the U.S. Air Force, the Air Command chronographs gained recognition and were later used by the Colombian Air Force.
The Air Command chronographs are celebrated for their precision, durability, and distinctive design. They feature a flyback chronograph function, allowing pilots to reset and restart the chronograph with a single push, a crucial feature for aviation tasks. Additionally, they include a countdown bezel, enhancing their functionality for various timing requirements.
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Modern Air Command watches retain the vintage aesthetic of their 1950s predecessors while incorporating advanced materials and technology. For instance, the new models are available in grade 23 titanium and red gold, materials that offer both robustness and lightweight properties. The timepieces are powered by the Blancpain Manufacture F388B movement, which operates at 5 Hz and includes a free-sprung silicon balance for improved accuracy and resistance to magnetic fields.
These contemporary versions also feature a deep blue dial with a subtle sunburst finish, scratch-resistant ceramic countdown bezel, and Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility. The combination of these elements ensures that the Air Command chronographs are not only functional but also visually striking, blending heritage with modern watchmaking excellence.
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Villeret
Named after Blancpain’s birthplace, the Villeret collection embodies classical elegance and traditional watchmaking. The collection is known for its purity of lines, clarity of dials, and the slenderness of double-stepped cases. The Villeret line features a range of timepieces from simple three-hand watches to highly complicated models, such as perpetual calendars, moon phases, and tourbillons. These watches often include grand feu enamel dials and blued steel serpentine hands, showcasing the brand’s dedication to traditional craftsmanship and aesthetic refinement.
The Villeret collection is deeply rooted in Blancpain’s heritage, representing the brand’s most classic and elegant designs. The collection includes ultra-thin models, demonstrating the brand’s technical prowess in creating sophisticated yet understated timepieces. For instance, the Villeret Tourbillon 12 Jours features a flying tourbillon with a remarkable 12-day power reserve, achieved with a single barrel. This model highlights both the technical and aesthetic excellence of Blancpain, with a grand feu enamel dial and a beautifully skeletonized caseback.
Since its debut in 1982, the Villeret collection has been continually updated with modern interpretations while maintaining its traditional values. The use of innovative mechanisms, such as under-lug correctors and secured calendar systems, ensures the functionality and reliability of these timepieces. Blancpain’s commitment to blending tradition with innovation is evident in the Villeret collection’s enduring popularity and the brand’s continuous development of new models that honor its rich history.
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Ladybird
The Ladybird collection, introduced in 1956, was a groundbreaking series of ladies’ watches that housed the world’s smallest round movement at the time. The Ladybird’s initial release featured the caliber 615, the smallest automatic movement in the world at that time, with a diameter of 15.7mm and a thickness of only 3.9mm. A marvel of modern engineering, it offered an impressive 38-hour power reserve. The movement’s platinum central rotor and silicon balance spring were cutting-edge technologies that ensured reliable performance.
Modern Ladybird models maintain this legacy of innovation and elegance. The collection includes various designs, such as the Ladybird Colors, which feature gem-set cases, mother-of-pearl dials, and vibrant color accents. These watches are powered by Blancpain’s in-house movements, demonstrating the brand’s dedication to producing high-quality, mechanical timepieces for women. The emphasis on beauty and technical excellence ensures that each Ladybird watch is both a functional timepiece and a piece of fine jewelry.
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Métiers d’Art
Blancpain’s Métiers d’Art collection is a celebration of artistic excellence in watchmaking. These timepieces showcase intricate craftsmanship, including hand-engraving, enameling, and other traditional decorative techniques. Each watch in this collection is a unique work of art, often featuring dials that depict intricate scenes and motifs.
The Métiers d’Art collection is a testament to Blancpain’s dedication to preserving and innovating traditional artisanal skills. The collection features a variety of techniques such as shakudō, an ancient Japanese method involving a copper and gold alloy that undergoes multiple treatments to achieve a rich patina. This technique, historically used to decorate samurai swords, has been adapted by Blancpain to create unique watch dials.
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Engraving is a prominent technique used masterfully in the Métiers d’Art collection. Blancpain’s master engravers meticulously hand-engrave dials, movement bridges, and case backs, often taking inspiration from nature and historical themes. This detailed work involves sketching designs by hand and then carving them into the material, creating textures and patterns that bring the designs to life.
One of the collection’s standout pieces is “The Great Wave,” inspired by Hokusai’s famous woodblock print. This watch features a three-dimensional white gold engraving of a wave, enhanced with shakudō patina to capture the dynamism and power of the ocean. The dial background is made of Mexican obsidian, a material chosen for its stormy appearance, which complements the dramatic wave carving.
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Final Thoughts
Blancpain’s dedication to preserving the art of traditional watchmaking while embracing modern innovations ensures its place at the pinnacle of luxury horology. From the pioneering Fifty Fathoms to the beautifully intricate Métiers d’Art, Blancpain watches are a testament to the brand’s unwavering commitment to excellence.
For those looking to explore and acquire these exquisite timepieces, SwissWatchExpo offers a curated selection of Blancpain watches, ensuring you find the perfect piece that resonates with your style and heritage.
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